Bianco Ridge + Piz Palü & Piz Morteratsch

The final day of this adventure is also a challenge! The day begins with a glacier hike through an impressive crevasse zone below Bellavista, across the Bellavista Terrace, and up to Passo Bellavista at 3680m. From here, we follow the Spinasgrat on rocks to Piz Spinas at 3823m or the West Summit of Piz Palü. Then, it becomes less steep, and we traverse over snow and ice to the summit of Piz Palü at 3901m. For the descent, we continue the traverse of Piz Palü to the East Summit at 3882m. The ice becomes slightly steeper again before we reach the Pers Glacier. Descending through the impressive Cambrena Icefall, we cross it towards Fuorcla Trovat. The final section takes us along a hiking trail below Piz Trovat at 3146m until we reach the mountain station of Diavolezza at 2978m. Here, we can have a drink and some food on the terrace. We conclude the adventure with a cable car ride and then the Rhaetian Railway until we arrive back in Pontresina. Here, we say goodbye. If the weather doesn't allow for an ascent of Piz Palü, we can also reach Diavolezza via the normal route through the Fortezza Ridge.

The meeting with your mountain guide takes place in Pontresina. Together, you discuss the plan and the weather for the upcoming days once again. You receive the equipment you still need, and your backpack is checked: Now the adventure can begin! From there, you will either go on foot or by horse-drawn carriage (not included) to the Val Roseg Valley. If we choose to walk, we will take a peaceful and beautiful hiking trail. Starting from Roseg at 1999m, the terrain becomes steeper: a beautiful path leads us higher and higher. About an hour before reaching the hut, we get a breathtaking view of the highlight of this adventure: the white snowy ridge leading to the summit of Piz Bernina at 4049m! Upon arrival at the hut, we enjoy a well earned dinner and discuss tomorrow's tour.

As preparation for the Bianco ridge ascent, we will climb Piz Morteratsch 3751m today. We start the day early and have breakfast together the climbers heading for the Bernina today. In the darkness, we first walk on hiking trails and then climb various easy climbing passages to reach Vadrettin da Tschierva. We ascend this glacier until we reach the steep section at Fuorcla da Boval at 3346m. Here, we can practice our ice techniques for tomorrow. This ice flank has a vertical difference of about 120 to 200 meters and is up to 40° steep. Afterward, we continue over less steep glacier terrain until we reach the viewpoint summit of Piz Morteratsch. From here, we have a wonderful and impressive view of the so-called "Heaven's Ladder" or Himmelstreppe, the Biancoridge! The altitude of 3751 meters will help us acclimatize a bit to the height for tomorrow's adventure. We return to the Tschierva Hut the same way we came. Upon our arrival, we dry our equipment and prepare for tomorrow. If the weather forecast for day 3 is not ideal, we can also attempt the Biancograat today.

For this challenge, we have to get up early today. After a quick breakfast, we step into the cool morning air and prepare ourselves. The first part of the route is already familiar to us: we hike uphill on a trail with climbing passages. After about 200 meters of elevation gain, we traverse along a narrow path and a few short climbing sections to reach the Vadret da Tschierva glacier. We follow this glacier for a while and then transition back to rock: from now on, it's uphill again. After a short section of snow/ice, we reach the start of the actual ascent. The Klammersteig, a kind of via ferrata (but without a rope), quickly takes us to Fuorcla Prievlusa at 3430m. Here, we have some sunshine and can take a break. From now on, we're truly on the ridge. With difficulties up to Grade III, we climb up this first rock tower. After a short abseil and a section of snow, there's another tower to conquer. After another abseil, we stand at the base of the impressive snowy ridge: the Biancograt (white ridge) itself! Step by step, we ascend this airy and long snowy ridge. After a while, it becomes less steep, and we can enjoy the views more. The snowy ridge ends at Piz Bianco at 3993m, from where we continue climbing on rocks. There's still some rock climbing, several abseil points, and a bit of snow until we reach Piz Bernina at 4048m. Piz Bernina is the easternmost four-thousander in the Alps. Here, we have a magnificent view in all directions: the Adamello Range, Ortler, Valais, and the route for tomorrow! Via rocks and snow on the Spallagraat, after a long day, we reach the Marco e Rosa Hut at 3597m: The Italian cuisine rewards us for today's ascent!